There are a few winter mornings in Kumarakom when the sun doesn’t shine, choosing instead to hide behind a mystical haze. And it’s on these mornings that the Kumarakom backwaters become even more magical.
Our community guide and local expert, Sanu, who captains the Sunrise Canoe Cruises of Canoe Kerala, says that while you may miss the sun rising over the backwaters, you’re instead captivated by the misty, dreamlike surroundings. Come, let’s take a virtual journey in our small canoe to feel what a misty sunrise cruise is like—if you’re lucky enough to be part of it.
When you sit on the canoe, the sun is still rising. There’s a subtle hint of dawn’s light, though the darkness still lingers loosely. The oars begin to make gentle splashes on the water, and you’re off, gliding through a sleepy canal. Mist hovers like a powdery spray, cloaking everything around you.
The birds are already at work—the cormorants dipping their heads underwater for the perfect worms to feed their young, the egrets pacing gracefully along the banks, while a white-breasted kingfisher flies overhead, letting out a sharp cry that echoes across the water.
As you glide ahead, the dawn breaks gently. Coconut groves line the canal sides, and amidst the canopy, you spot jackfruit and Anjili trees scattered among the banana clusters. The trees appear smoky and deep green from afar, partially veiled by mist.
Here and there, you’ll notice narrow, sleek canoes gliding past—these are the local lifelines. So slender, you’d be amazed to see three or four people sitting comfortably within them. They are expertly designed for everyday commutes through these watery lanes.
Before long, you moor near Aymanam village. And there, you're greeted by a mesmerising sight—thousands of ducks, released by their farmers to forage freely in the fields. These ducks choose their own organic meals, which in turn enriches the quality of their eggs and meat. A natural process that’s deeply respected in Kerala’s culinary culture, especially in the famed Syrian Christian dishes. Watching the ducks waddle and dive in perfect rhythm, and then swim back in a flawless file when called—it's nothing short of delightful.
With these moments etched into memory, you step into a tea shop in Aymanam. A rustic place, filled with the sweet, smoky scent of boiling spices, milk, and tea leaves. You take a seat among local elders immersed in conversation. Some talk of farming, others of cricket scores, climate, or politics. The clatter of cups, rising steam, and their unhurried banter make time feel suspended.
After your tea, a short stroll takes you to the edge of the paddy fields, where you watch farming happen below sea level—a marvel in itself. Vast green stretches of land, with the blue sky melting into the horizon. It’s a sight you carry home in your heart.
As the day advances, it’s time to walk back to your canoe. The mist has lifted slightly. A soft sun now dances on the waves. The pale blue-green haze of morning begins to give way to a golden glow, and the backwaters slowly stir to life. Locals are out and about, many of them engaged in paddy farming. The bright red matta rice is their staple, cultivated with skill and commitment year-round—except during the monsoons.
As your canoe glides back toward Little Chembaka, you pass by villagers with their anglers, casting lines to catch fish for lunch. A few fishermen are out too, throwing their nets in graceful arcs. You’re lucky if you catch them in action—usually, they prefer the stillness of the night to cast their nets in peace.
And then you return to Little Chembaka.
Awaiting you is a breakfast that feels like a warm embrace—steaming puttu served with ripe bananas and spiced kadala curry, paper-thin dosas with tangy sambar and coconut chutney, and a fragrant bowl of upma made with roasted semolina and vegetables, all lovingly prepared in our kitchen. Freshly squeezed juice sits beside your plate, followed by a cup of hot tea brewed in true Kerala style.
This is not just a meal. It’s a continuation of the morning’s journey—a gentle return from the mystical to the everyday, from water to land, from stillness to flavour.
At Little Chembaka, our sunrise canoe cruise is more than just a sightseeing experience—it’s a slow unfolding of stories, nature, and life. One misty morning at a time.
Misty Morning, A Canoe Ride, and a Soulful Breakfast
A Day of Discovery: Midday Canoe Cruise Through Kumarakom Backwaters with Adele and Natalia
Our efforts for a clean and green backwaters in Kumarakom