It was a Sunday, mid-December. We had just finished our post-breakfast tea when Adele and her daughter Natalia came to our place. They wanted to take in some sun so they sat out beside the canalfront. Our home cook quickly prepared some pineapple juice to refresh them as we exchanged introductions. Adele and Natalia revealed a personal connection to India and shared their long-standing desire to visit Kerala. Though a little apprehensive, they looked forward to experiencing the midday canoe cruise.


Our traditional shikkara was ready, and so was Sanu, our knowledgeable guide and boat captain. After ensuring Adele and Natalia were comfortable and aware of safety measures, the shikkara set sail.




Natalia’s curiosity was piqued by the sight of a moored houseboat. She asked about how the houseboats came into vogue in the Kerala Backwaters. Our guide explained about how the big barges were transformed into granaries when paddy cultivation started booming in the Kuttanad region and how the granaries became luxury houseboats now. The story of Joseph Murickan and zero-sea level farming fascinated them both.


(For history buffs, Read our blog on zero sea level paddy farming here: Do you know the place where the paddy is cultivated below the sea level and who made it possible?


As the boat moved ahead we found the water ripples playing with the sun rays, transforming into glinted droplets flashing out tiny sparkles with the soft waves. The white breasted kingfisher perched upon a bamboo pole stooped below looking closely at the water, waiting patiently for that one fine catch for his day, a sardine or mackerel, may be. Coconut groves, with their dust-green fronds, swayed gently on both banks, creating a soothing curtain of nature. Adele remarked, “How soothing the breeze is!” 


A stop at the Aymanam Village


A furlong ahead, we decided to moor the shikkara. There was a local temple on the left bank and a primary school. The morning aarti was over by the time we reached, so we just strolled around observing the traditional Kerala architecture of the small two-storey buildings of the Aymanam Village. We might describe the architecture style as Euro-Kerala Architecture. There were traditional Dravidian architectural elements well blended to European style sloping roofs well adapted to support the predominantly monsoon climate. Natalia could relate to the roof designs she had seen back in her homeland especially in the 19th Century structures. It was quite an amazing moment for them to find out the architectural fusion that respected the tropical monsoon climate in Kerala. 




As we were inspecting the Indian made brick tiles in the adjacent primary school, a few bubbly children waved their hands and cheered “Good Morning Madams” to us. Adele and Natalia waved back with wide smiles. At the same time, we saw one of their school teachers alighting on the bank from a small unshaded canoe which is in frequent use in the local neighborhood as a quick commuting vehicle. She carried an umbrella as her personal shadegiver from the bright sun. A group of local women were deftly layering both the banks on the canal with hessian cloths which would act as natural bunds during the rains when the water level would rise. They explained that a concrete bund will not allow the coconut trees and other trees to grow along therefore they were using the locally made hessian covers. Our guests appreciated such a gesture of sustainable practices that contributed to the local economy without messing with the prevalent backwaters ecosystem. 


A red mud road passed between the primary school and the local temple. Our guide asked Adele and Natalia, “Did you feel any difference in the ground level? Didn’t you feel that you are stepping a gradient below where you were standing before back beside the school?” It was a quick recollection that dawned upon Adele. She excitedly said, “OMG! We have stepped a bit below the ground level, incredible!” We giggled along as we stepped ahead. A vast green land on the right welcomed us. 




The paddy farms stood out vibrant green underneath the bluish yellow sky. Bluish yellow because the sunlight has blended in the blue of the sky. A few white cattle egrets were out in the farms foraging for small worms. We familiarized Adele and Natalia about the history of zero-sea level farming spearheaded by Joseph Murickan (Read our blog on this here: ) and how the locals of Kumarakom sustained through their daily square meals from the local matta rice that grows here in Kumarakom. There were a few closely knit hamlets around the fields where the farmers stayed and we showed them around how the farmers and their families source everything from their backyard farms, championing the cause for zero-kilometer food reducing the carbon footprint at roots. 


Immersing in rural crafts


Our next stop was at a local house run by three hardworking and skilled women. They greeted us and after a short conversation, they showed their handwork skills - coir making, fence making with dried coconut leaves and weaving mats with screw pine leaves. They explained how they are using the locally available natural resources like coconut husks, dried coconut leaves and screw pine leaves. The screw pine leaf weaving was a tricky one and involved a lot of patience with agile fingers. Adele tried a hand in the screw pine mat making and she did a pretty good job on a first go! She revealed that she loves crochet work and that might have helped her with the mat weaving.




The manual coir making was another tough skill as it involved maneuvering with palms instead of hands. The more you delicately winding the husks, the more fine the coir will be. Lakshmi Chechi showed around her front yard after the craft sessions. There was a large and heavy stone grinder where they ground masalas every day with their hands. On the other side, we saw a biogas plant they made for their own household use. Natalia admired their sense of self sufficiency. 


The journey back


On our journey back, we caught the sight of a purple heron clutching a snake in its beak—a mesmerizing sight that encapsulated the raw beauty of the backwaters. The shikkara moored and we got back to the banks. There inside the Wonderwerk Kitchen, the dining table was getting laid. The aroma of freshly cooked food dominated by the sweetness of coconut oil and coconut completely drifted us away. It was a vegetarian spread because Adele preferred vegetarian food on her trip to our place and she loved having Sambhar. The Moru Curry acted as a palate cleanser while the Avial and the Pulissery were totally the stars of the day. Natalia was mesmerized by the array of flavors on her plate and she said she loved each and every food item. On mentioning that the vegetables were completely sourced from the local farms, they were overwhelmed with joy. 




Saying goodbye was bittersweet. After such an immersive and heartwarming day, it was difficult to part ways. “Until we meet again,” we said, waving as their cab slowly disappeared down the road to their next destination. As the cab pulled away, we couldn’t help but reflect on the magical day we had shared. Adele and Natalia’s curiosity, warmth, and openness to new experiences made the journey even more memorable. Their joy reminded us of the power of slow, meaningful travel to connect people not just to places, but to each other. Until next time, Adele and Natalia, thank you for reminding us why we love sharing the beauty of Kumarakom with the world.